As the saying goes, "Rome wasn't built in a day", and it certainly can't be experienced in one. However, Kelly, Brittany, and I did our best to squeeze it into seven. According to my Health app, our cappuccino-fueled quest covered 96 miles (my new Birkenstocks are now very well broken-in) - here are the photos to prove it.
Our first, and perhaps best, meal of the week was at Lagana. We quickly worked our way through plates of prosciutto e melone, eggplant parmesean, artichokes, and caprese while the owners and waitstaff chatted with neighbors passing through. After two espressos (have to fight that jetlag), we were hit the road.
My second day in Rome, Kelly and I took a guided bike tour of the city. Our fearless leader had us weaving through the Roman traffic and cobblestoned alleys as we made our way through the seven hills. Highly recommended as an activity (thank you McElraths), as I'm not confident we would have made it out alive had I been leading the charge.
Excuse the groutfit - you gotta do what you gotta do. Then again, it could've been worse: one woman, who was biking with us, had her leggings tear all up the seams at our first stop, and spent the remaining four hours with three windbreakers tied around her legs in attempt to shield her exposed backside from public view. By the last stop, she couldn't get off her bike, as the seat was playing an integral role in holding the windbreaker contraption together. As my mother would say - it's not a fashion show.
After a red grapefruit gelato at Teatro my first night, I thought that all gelato was pretty much equally great and delicious - nothing to pass up a chocolate bar for, but pretty tasty. Not the case - heaven is a place on earth, and that place is Giolitti. Get a scoop of dark chocolate, and a scoop of pomegranate, and you will spend the next five minutes unable to form words.
The spread below is 150 Flavors - impressive, but having tried Giolitti I was unwilling to go anywhere else.
Me and a native.
In honor of Papa Francesco's environmental initiatives, this church had a series of beautiful metal trees set up in the nave and chapels.
A bit blurry, unfortunately, but this sculpture by Bernini has to be one of the most beautiful ever made - the way the fingers press in extraordinary. It's a bit like when you see a sculpture of a bust wearing a veil; I can't quite convince myself that it's really solid marble.
Even nuns love gelato.
This installation by South African artist William Kentridge - Triumphs and Laments - on the banks of the Tiber tells Kentridge's version of Rome's history from its birth up to the present. The MACRO (which I cannot recommend highly enough) has a wonderful exhibit documenting his process, but more can also be found here. One of the most interesting aspects of the project is that the designs were made by putting up massive stencils and power-washing the surrounding area. As the pollution and smog of the city reestablish themselves on the walls, the mural will slowly disappear.
The below-right photo is a fried artichoke from the Jewish quarter, and was one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten. It may not look like much, but it's not to be missed.
Grazie mille, Kelly, for being the most wonderful host, and showing me your city!
