TODAY IN THE FIFTH

Back in Paris, and living on my own for the first time (!!).  Hard to believe.  To be fair, though, my apartment is smaller than my half of any dorm room I've lived in.  Nonetheless, for the next four months, home is the 5eme arrondisement.  Since I spent yesterday losing my battle to jetlag, I'm calling today my first official day on the ground.  I got myself out of bed, and into the new 'hood.  

The new street!

Just down the road: l'école Sainte-Barbe.  Saint Ignatius of Loyola was here.  

The Pantheon (which can be seen from my window), is currently under construction.  I, however, don't hate the bird cage look.  Spices things up a bit.  

L'Église Saint Geneviève just up the hill

Purple doors are the new red.  

Amazing stained glass windows in that place!

Little old ladies in big fur coats, out for a Sunday afternoon stroll.

Inside the window of a Lebanese restaurant.. (poster sized)

First time I've actually seen "cuises de grenouilles" (frog legs) on a menu

Making meringues in the window of a bakery

The end for now.  Welcome to the fifth!!

FRIDAY MORNING

Today, Friday, was supposed to be the only nice day of this weekend (the last of the semester!) so some of us decided to go ice-skating at the Trocadero rink, right across from the Eiffel Tower.  

Some teachers had the same idea, and booked the rink for their students.  Too bad so sad, but the best view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and one of the better crêpe stands (these people are not stingy with their nutella!).  

After collecting a few handfuls of free chocolate samples at the Trocadero Christmas Market, walked over to Deyrolle with Clara, and then trekked down the Seine.  

Past the love-locks bridge (Le Pont des Arts)...

and some old-fashioned sailboats with big wooden steering wheels...

to get to Shakespeare and Company!! I'd been saving it as a reward for finishing all my classes and work.  

Touristy, yes.  Any more so and the guys with the one-euro mini Eiffel Towers will start camping out between shelves.  But so so worth it.  

This place is everything a bookstore should be.  Floor to ceiling books, and slightly disorganized piles on tables; hand-written staff recommendations stuck on favorite books; not too clean-you still get that great book smell; warm, non-fluorescent lights; and the perfect reading room upstairs! 

No pictures from the reading room, but the walls were covered in old books (from their library, not for sale), there was a mishmash of comfy chairs, a desk with a functioning typewriter, and a big window looking out on the Seine.  Also in the next room there was a piano, so for a while my reading was accompanied by piano music.  Where else does that happen?  I camped out in an overstuffed blue velvet wing chair with a book for an hour and a half.  

p.s. this is where Hemingway borrowed books when he was too poor to buy them!!

PICTURE PERFECT SATURDAY (with the photos to prove it)

Hard to believe, but I only have a week left in Paris! (until next semester)  Luckily, we had the perfect weather for a day of exploring.  Started the day off at the Marché des Puces (flea market) at Porte de Cligancourte, where we sorted through absinthe spoons, old postcards, and racks of fur coats.  It's one big treasure hunt!  I forgot I had my camera in my bag, but next time I'll be sure to document.  

For lunch, we went off to the Marais in search of Breizh Café.  Rumor had it, these were the best galettes (buckwheat, savory crêpes) in Paris.  Unfortunately, neither Clara or I had written down the address or looked into where it was.  Found it eventually, with the help of some friendly grocery-store workers.  When we got there at 2:15 it was full and there was a 45 minute wait, but we took it, and wandered through the Marais in the meantime.    

These oyster-shuckers are popping up outside of all the restaurants and cafés!

Found this great church, my new favorite!

But then it was time for lunch!!  I had a galette complete champignons (ham, mushrooms, emmental, and a fried egg) with cidre to drink.  The rumor-ers do not lie.  These are the best of the best, and I will be back with everyone I know.   

Afterwards, more walking!  This is the courtyard of the National Archives.  

And here is the Hôtel de Ville (sadly not a hotel, but the city hall)

Hôtel de Ville, and the church from earlier (with a great reddish pink door!)

Headed over from the Marais to Île Saint Louis

And had a bit of salted caramel ice cream at the Berthillon!

Someone had left the gate to this courtyard open, so we stepped in.  

Lots of hams

Lots of awards

Lots of salamis

And the Louvre at night (actually the Louvre at five.  It gets dark early.)