Sunday, February 9, 2014

ON THE LOUVRE

The Louvre is big.  Really big.  And packed with umbrella-wielding tour guides wearing headsets and hands-free mics, trying to get their herd to the Mona Lisa.  There are a bunch of wings, and to get to a different one, you have to go back to the big main lobby, fight through the crowd trying to get into the Apple store, dig through your pockets for your ticket, and re-enter.

Today was the second time I've been to the Louvre.  After six months in Paris.  Because, unless you do it right, the Louvre is a bit scary.  Good news, though, I think I've figured it out.  
 There are three ways to approach your visit:
1. Plan to wander: this is not a good plan.  The Louvre is a palace.  Packed with loads and loads of art.  Wandering around will quickly get overwhelming, and you will get trapped between tour groups, and maybe never make it out.
2. Have a big long list of "must sees": this is a slightly better plan.  As long as you know where the things are.  If you don't, you probably won't find them.  Also pay attention to which wings they're in, because you want to make sure to see all the ones in the same wing at the same time (be warned- just because one thing is on floor 2 in Richelieu, does not mean you can get there from floor 2 in Sully!!).
3. Think of a painting or artist from a movement or time period you like, find out where it is, go there, and then wander. If you've got some time, pick two!  This is the best of the best; this is what I did today (last time was approach 2, with a big long list for my art history class, and two hours before I had to be in that class, with notes).  This way, you see a couple paintings you know, and others that you're likely to enjoy, as they're similar.
 Today I wanted to go see Rembrandt and his 17th century Dutch friends.  So I did, and it was great, and there were hardly any other people!  Then I stopped in to see the Radeau de la Méduse by Gericault in a different wing: the wing with the Mona Lisa, and the big grand-genre french paintings like La Liberté Guidant le Peuple.  This was a little bit of a mad-house, but still worth it (those huge ones are darn cool in real life)!
 Other tip: don't enter through the pyramids.  There's always a big huge line.  Instead, enter through the "Carousel du Louvre" off of Rue de Rivoli.  No line, and you can exit through the pyramids once you're done, and get the same view! (somehow, there's never a line to exit)
 On my way home, ran into these girls, selling orange juice and painted shells for 50 cents.
 I went with this one (they said it was their best).
Polite remodeling
 Pop-up saussage and cheese shop in the middle of the road
There you have it, my guide to the Louvre!  Note: if you don't know what you want to see, want a bit of a smaller setting, or want to see a range of different movements and styles, my vote is the Orsay.  There, you can wander around, and you'll bump into a whole bunch of famous paintings.